The Weissmies massif is located on the Pennine Alps or Valais, in Switzerland. We can find it between the Saas Valley (Saastal) and the Simplon Valley (Simplon Pass). Classic ascents begin at Saas Grund, in the Saas Valley, that together with Mischabel Alps, form a range of mountains with ascents of all kinds of difficulties for mountaineers who want to spend a few days in the area.
The highest mountain of the group is the Weissmies (4,017 m). The normal ascent route is from the Hohsaas (3,098 m), and it takes one day. Another option is to spend the night at the Hohsaashütte refuge in order to begin the ascent earlier on the next day and enjoy the sunrise.
Those who like rock climbing (II grade) should not miss the Weissmies traverse (Weissmies traversierung). On the first day, we ascend to the Almageller refuge (Almagellerhütte) (2,894 m). We reach the summit from the south by mostly rock climbing on an incredibly beautiful ridge.
The most beautiful ridge (only for experienced mountaineers) may be the Weissmies north ridge. It has rock climbing passes up to IV grade and snow ridges. Ascent begins at Hohsaas or Wessmies refuge very early in the morning.
Lagginhorn south ridge (4,010 m) is a very attractive route too. It is a wonderful rock ridge that becomes more and more aerial with an endless impressive view, specially with the ascent (and descent) of several gendarmes all the way through.
The Lagginhorn normal route is technically easier (II grade in rock, 40° in snow), but it requires good physical condition and experience in classic technique with crampons on the last area of snow before reaching the summit.
The impressive Fletschhorn – Lagginghorn traverse begins early in the morning. Fletschhorn, which is 3,993 meters high, does not appear in the list of the “4,000-meter peaks of the alps” (although it seems to have been included there in the past). This detail seems imperceptible while traversing its summit in order to ascend to the Lagginhorn’s north face by rock climbing (II grade) so as to reach the snow ridge. It is a splendid ascent!